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 Overview
Distances, resources

The Source to The Barrier
(and beyond, to Woolwich) 

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According to the National Trail sign at the source, it is 294km or 184 miles from source to the Thames Barrier along the Thames Path (which at times diverges from the river). For my walking days I used distances from my National Trail guide, or from the Thames Path online distance calculator, to work out how far I had walked. For my paddling days I calculated distances using my Nicholson waterways guide (River Thames & the Southern Waterways). So through a combination of walking and paddling the final tally is 302 km/188 miles. 

 

My journey in 2018 was done in 3 stages in June, August and September. You can view each of the 3 stages by clicking on the Menu above. To view an account of a particular day click on the relevant day below. 

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Stage 1, 5th-11th June: 99km/61.5 miles

Day 1, 1st walking day: Source to Cricklade (17.3 km/12 ¼ miles)

Day 2, 2nd walking day: Cricklade to Lechlade (17.3km/10 ¾ miles)

Day 3, 1st SUP day: Lechlade to Rushey Lock (17km/10 ½ miles)

Day 4, 2nd SUP day: Rushey Lock to Bablock Hythe (17km/10 ½ miles)

Day 5, 3rd SUP day: Bablock Hythe to Godstow, N. Oxford (12km/7 ½ miles)

Day 6, 4th SUP day: Godstow to Radley (16km/10 miles)

 

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Stage 2, 9th-11th August: 50.15km/31.16 miles

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Day 7, 3rd walking day: Radley to Clifton Hampden Bridge (14.8km/9.19miles)

Day 8, 4th walking day: Clifton Hampden Bridge to Cholsey Ferry Lane (17.65km/10.97miles)

Day 9, kayaking day: Cholsey Papist Way to Caversham Bridge (17.7km/11miles)

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Stage 3, 13th-26th September: 152.75km/95miles

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Day 10, 5th SUP day: Caversham Bridge to Henley-on-Thames (17.7km/11m)

Day 11, 6th SUP day: Henley-on-Thames to Bourne End, Upper Thames SC (17km/10m)

Day 12, 7th SUP day: Bourne End, Upper Thames SC to Windsor slipway (17km/10 miles)

Day 13, 5th walking day: Windsor slipway to Staines (15km/9.25miles)

Day 14, 6th walking day: Staines to Hampton Court (20.2km/12.5 miles) 

Day 15, 7th walking day: Hampton Court to Kew Bridge ( 23.2km/14.5 miles)

Day 16, 8th walking day (half day): Kew Bridge to Putney (9 km/5.75 miles)

Day 17, 9th walking day: Putney to Vauxhall (10.3km/6.4 miles)

Day 18/19: 10th walking day (half day): Vauxhall to Tower Bridge ((7.34km/4.56m)

Day 19: Rowing from Tower Bridge to the Thames Barrier and beyond 

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To the Sea 
(Woolwich to Grain)

According to Natural England, the Thames Path extension from the Thames Barrier to Grain village, on the Isle of Grain, is 47.12 miles (75.85km) long. As I started at Woolwich Arsenal, I estimate that in 2022 I walked a further 45 miles or 72.4km to reach the sea. 

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I walked the Path on five days over 6 months, choosing fine weather at weekends, and for the very last stretch, opting for a day when I would arrive at Yantlet Creek at low tide to access the London Stone. In the end, I finally arrived at Grain on Sunday 18th September 2022, having set out for the first time on Saturday 12th February. 

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I used trains across London from my home in Putney to reach destinations in South East London and North Kent. Once there, mostly I used local buses for getting to and from the river, but also had to use a taxi or car on a few occasions when timetables did not fit. 

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I’ve descibed this shorter journey in two stages: Woolwich to Gravesend, and Gravesend to Grain. This is because, to my mind, there are two distinct parts of the Thames/Coastal Path route. The first: walking through the environs of London in an urban setting; the second: walking along the Hoo Peninsula in a predominantly natural environment. 

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These two stages are covered in To the Sea.

 

The distances below reflect walking distance on The Thames/Coastal Path, they do not include 'walk in' and walk out' at the beginnng and end of each day's walking.

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Part 1: Woolwich to Gravesend: 18 miles/29km 

Part 2: Gravesend to Grain: 27 miles/43.5km

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          Resources

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 In 2018 I relied heavily on David Sharp’s The Thames Path National Trail Guide for walking, and for paddling, Nicholson’s Waterways Guide 7 (River Thames & the Southern Waterways-although a 2006 edition bought from a 2nd hand bookshop, whilst some of the riparian surroundings had changed, the course of the river had not). Both guides were extremely helpful not only during the planning stages but also on the journey itself.

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For online resources, I used National Trail’s website, Thames Path section, which has a very helpful Plan Your Journey option. For paddling, I used two Apps: the Environment Agency’s App River Thames River Conditions, and the River Thames Guide (the official British Marine App which includes a journey planner, weather forecasts and lock information).

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I also had a useful traditional foldout map of the entire river and Thames Path (published by the Environment Agency).

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In 2022, preparing for the Coastal Path extension was somewhat different. Because the route had only recently opened, there were no dedicated maps or guides. Instead, I relied on Transport for London’s map and description of section 4 of the Thames Path (Thames Barrier to River Darent) then the first part of section 1 of the London Orbital Outer Path (‘the London Loop’), from Erith to Barnes Cray near Dartford Marshes. From there, I used Google maps and Kent County Council’s online Public Rights of Way map. Finally, from Gravesend OS Explorer 163 map of the Hoo Peninsula was indispensable for finding my way around creeks and marshes, and for reaching a village or settlement for transport to and from London at the beginning or end of a day’s walking.  Other keen walkers had already gone before me: Derick Rethans’ account of walking the Thames Path extension in January 2022, very soon after it opened, was very helpful; and Ian Tokelove’s photographs and accounts of the wild, open spaces and walking routes around the estuary on his website Remote London were inspirational. These gave me a sense of what to expect.


The route is waymarked (mostly) and quite easy to follow. But when it diverges from the river, especially around industrial or commercial sites in outer London, it can be quite difficult to find your way around, or to reconnect with the path. On one day in April, walking from Greenhithe to Gravesend, I was exasperated by two tiresome diversions which Kent County Council had put in place so soon after the Path had opened. 


Books helped to inspire me to Follow the Thames. At the very beginning, there were certain books which had raised my curiosity and made me want to discover more: Peter Ackroyd’s magnificent Thames Sacred River, and Tom Chesshyre’s From Source to Sea. I re-read Kenneth Grahame’s Wind in the Willows with delight. Much later, I came across 

John Eade's website Where Thames Smooth Waters Glide-a fantastic resource.

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Then there was Caroline Crampton’s The Way to The Sea, which I read soon after I had completed my journey to the Thames Barrier and Woolwich: her account of living on a boat on the Thames and sailing the estuary as a child, and her rediscovery of it all as an adult, confirmed how much there was, still, to see. Charles Dickens’ close association with North Kent is well-known. His haunting descriptions of fog-bound bogs and marshes, and the spectre of prison ships on the Thames, in Great Expectations, brought history to life. Finally, Historic England’s publication The Hoo Peninsula Landscape (2015) by Sarah Newsome, Edward Carpenter and Peter Kendall, is a wonderful account of the Hoo Peninsula’s history, its people and life there.

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But these are only a small selection of the many books I have read and am yet to read about this magnificent river.

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Return to the menu bar to follow the different stages of my journey, or click on individual days for the Source to the Barrier ((and Beyond) section. 

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